FIND YOUR WAY IN BORDEAUX

Within the first hour, you know a return trip is not far off in the future. It’s a rare thing to find a city so rich in character and history with an atmosphere that’s so readily accessible the moment you arrive. Don’t get me wrong; it checks all the boxes for a French city, both good and bad. Baskets full of fresh baguettes, 2-hour lunches, and a whimsically odd populace ripping through hand-rolled cigarettes at an incredibly alarming rate Everything’s there, but there’s so much more beyond what you see on the surface.

As expected, millennia of winemaking serve as the backbone of Bordeaux, which isn’t surprising, but what is is how young the city feels. Late-night bars packed with the twirliest of mustaches and the highest of heels ironically enjoying the latest in-vogue blue-collar beers—your standard fare in any large city. But in Bordeaux, all it takes is a single stride to find yourself chasing that shitty can of malt with some of the world’s most sought-after wines from the finest chateaus. The city is a thriving marriage of the finest parts of the past with modern life. Established legends of French gastronomy coexist with wild upstarts who are evolving staples of the French kitchen, combining the regional flavors of Bordeaux with the dishes from back home. A particular French-Peruvian establishment comes to mind. Forever lauded for its chateaux and haute offerings, Bordeaux’s profoundly rich character has taken root throughout its cobblestoned streets and in every aspect of life. Past, present, and future

ARRIVAL/DEPARTURE

Getting to Bordeaux’s city center is a relatively stress-free affair, depending on your method of travel. Sadly, there’s no train connected directly to Bordeaux–Mérignac Airport, so your best bet, if arriving by air, is to grab a taxi, bus, or hop on the Navette Shuttle 30’ Direct shuttle, which runs at half-hour intervals throughout the day. For train arrivals, Gare de Bordeaux St. Jean will be your terminating stop. Cabs, buses, and tram cars can get you closer to your final destination once you’re in the city. Be sure to purchase a ticket if you plan on using the city’s transit system; fines can be heavy for those who don’t (shamefully speaking from experience). If you can’t live without the familiarities of modern-day life back home, Uber is available in and around the city.

GETTING AROUND BORDEAUX

In the early 2000s, Bordeaux experienced a rebirth of sorts. Before then, the city was seen more as a well-worn stop along the route to exploring the chateaus of the region. In that revival, Bordeaux’s entire transit system was revamped. Today, a collection of buses and tram cars provide valuable methods of transportation that cover a healthy spread of the city. While there’s usually a bus or tram car nearby, Bordeaux is a dense and flat city, so when the weather permits, walking or biking around the city is a great option. As with most metro cities nowadays, there are a number of different bike sharing options available. 

GETTING TO KNOW BORDEAUX

The People: There’s a lot to unpack here. Before we dive into the big and the more nuanced differences between the people of France and America, let’s just stick to the Bordelais. (the greatest name for a region of people). Thanks to its southwestern location and proximity to Spain, interacting with people in Bordeaux can vary from what you may expect from its northern counterparts. Think of it more as Paris’ laidback, easy-going sister. Don’t be fooled, it’s still France, so aloof reactions complemented by having your personal bubble encroached on are plentiful, but it’s not as jarring as you may find in other cities. The slower atmosphere of the region informs how to operate in it—friendly, laid-back, and quant. Busily rushing around isn’t something you’ll encounter too often during your stay.

Now on to the greater subject, the French. They have their own way of going about life. To Americans, it can be jarring at first impression. The nuances of each culture seem to be at odds with each other more often than not. Whereas in some situations Americans expect friendliness and flexibility, the French expect formality and structure. Then in other situations, the dynamic is turned on its head. Parking, for example. Americans tend to stick to areas where parking is clearly designated, while the French park where they can fit their vehicles. The cultural differences can be vast, but there’s nothing that isn’t adaptable. An open mind, rather than one that skirts away at the first sign of unrecognized discomfort, is the best approach. There’s no way to avoid looking like a silly American from time to time, even if your French is perfect. Roll with the changes and do your best to try to understand the difference and the reason for its existence.

The History: Nearly everyone’s had a hand in shaping Bordeaux into what you see today—the Celts, the Romans, the Visigoths, the Spanish, the English, and the French (duh). Fertile land and an advantageous port will make any city like Bordeaux an obvious addition to trending empires. Throughout it all, wine has played a major role in its development. With the first vine planted by Roman settlers, the region’s terroir proved to be a key contributing factor in establishing Bordeaux as a major European trading outpost. In the 18th century, it saw its biggest economic boom thus far, becoming one of the busiest ports in Europe, second only to London. The economic influx, however, carried with it a mark of shame, as one of the dominant exports of Bordeaux was slaves. Following the French Revolution, Bordeaux twice became the center of the French government, during the War of 1817 and again during World War I. Up until the end of World War II, the city had been known as "the sleeping beauty" due to pollution that caused the entire city to turn charcoal black. Enter Alain Juppé, who served as mayor of Bordeaux for 13 years and was a former Prime Minister of France. Juppé kicked off the latest Bordelais renaissance with a restoration to the city’s neoclassical architecture, improved pedestrian mobility, a modernized tram system throughout each neighborhood, and a repurposing of the industrial-focused Bacalan district into a vibrant cultural space. His efforts didn’t go unnoticed, as 2007 marked the city becoming the largest Unesco World Heritage Site.

The Language: The French speak French. Big surprise there. As with any adventure, it’ll serve you and the people you’re interacting with to know at least the bare minimum, but this goes doubly for anywhere in France. With insular people like the French, adapting to the odd (to you) cultural norm is a sign that you’re making an effort to truly experience this country rather than just using it as a prolonged Instagram story. There are a slew of language learning apps available. Our favorite, Duolingo, uses an intuitive learning system to make picking up everyday phrases simple and easy.

The Food: France seems to exist in its own little culinary microclimate when it comes to local foods. Take five steps to the right or left and you’ll be in an entirely new environment with its own set of dishes specific to the 10-foot radius you’re standing in. Tastebuds be praised, and Bordeaux is no exception. Let’s start with the all-stars. First up, you’ve got cannelés, a sweet little round pastry with a center soaked in rum or vanilla; dip them in some local Sauternes wine for a full level up on deliciousness. Thanks to the Gironde River, the Bordeaux seafood game is always on point, making the oysters and mussels some of the most fresh and tasty little bivalves you’ve ever devoured. While the city is starting to adapt to more vegetarian offerings, dishes that usually begin as an adorable doe-eyed little animal still hold the highest court in the Bordelais kitchen. Dishes like Le Confit De Canard (slow-cooked duck), Entrecôte À La Bordelaise (steak cooked over vines from the nearest chateau), or the ever-present French icon—Foie Gras (pate made of the liver of a duck or goose).

Come for the well-known dishes of Bordeaux, but word of warning: you’re going to want to stay for the gastronomic wizardry on offer. Established regulars like La Tupina and La Noailles continue to uphold the traditions of the French brasserie, while a few new crazy Francs like Le Chien De Pavlov, Arcada, and Symbiose are taking the French menu to whole new levels of refinement while still keeping the love and warmth intact. 

The Drink: Let’s start with the obvious. The wine. You can fill endless pages on Bordeaux wines. To keep it short and to the point. Book a wine tour earlier in your stay; this is recommended. There’s no better way to experience the region's greatest creations than to visit the very place they were created. For those who want to arrive prepared, consider doing some reading beforehand. The Essential Guide to Bordeaux Wines is a fantastic precursor, laying a foundation of understanding before you’re over inundated with a lot of info. As the entire world becomes more open to globalization, so is Bordeaux, so don’t worry about getting a fresh slap to the face if you ask for a non-French wine; most places will happily accommodate. While top-notch vintages are available at wine bars—singling out Bar A Vin, nearly every other establishment, there’s still a good deal more drink on offer. Being the unofficial wine capital of the world, you’d be surprised at the number of beer bars, both general and craft, around the city. While the French enjoy their wine, a love for beer is a quiet favorite among the majority. Wherever and whatever you’re drinking, be sure to enjoy yourself. Drinking at Bordeaux bars is drawn-out and leisurely. So grab a table outside a cafe, order some tapas, and take in the slow pace of the Sleeping Beauty of the South.

The Weather: Your best bet for good weather is spring and summer. With that come the crowds, particularly around the end of June during the VinExpo Wine Conference, when the whole city is packed with wine experts and expensive premiums. If you can’t make a trip around those dates, Bordeaux’s raw beauty will make a lasting impression no matter how off the weather may be. In the rain, in the snow (rare)—the stark austerity of the city shines through it all. Remember to bring an umbrella and see the city in ways that most people will miss.

FOOD & DRINK

Maison L'amour (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Bakery
It’s hard to go wrong with any boulangerie in France, but this place is at the top of the list. Voted the best bakery in France in 2017, it has the best of everything you want: pastries, classics, breads, and savory snacks. Get there early and jump in the line that’s always out the door. 
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Halles de Bacalan (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Food Hall
While visiting Cite De Vin, be sure to grab a drink and meal at this refined food hall. The number of establishments occupying its halls varies but is sure to satisfy any belly.
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Arcada (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Traditional, Fine-Dining
The team at Arcada focuses on the basics, then refines, modernizes, and tweaks until the food is just right. The level of care and attention poured into each seasonal dish is immediately clear, from the first bite all the way to when you’re holding the plate in front of you and licking off the very last bit of food.
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Marché Capucins (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Food Hall
Bordeaux’s open-air food hall and market is not to be missed. Drop in for some fresh produce, baked treats, meats, and/or cheeses, but don’t forget to grab some mussels and frites at Bistro Poulette, some of the best you’ll ever have.
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Le Chien de Pavlov (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Traditional, Fine-Dining
In the never-ending search for the perfect meal, this spot has to be in the top ten. We’re talking "last meals" type meals. It’s hard to find an experience like that in such a warm and inviting setting. This unconventional French bistro hits the sweet spot with each dish. Word of advice: get the tasting menu and savor every bite.
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Symbiose (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Traditional, Wine, Cocktails
Drop in for lunch or dinner and settle in for a delightful collection of tar tars, platters of game meats, roasted vegetables, and desserts that’ll lift even the lowest of spirits. Pair it all with a small, yet carefully paired wine list, and you’ve won the day. Revisit later in the night for when the entire spot turns into a speakeasy; hint: knock on the grandfather clock in the corner.
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Rue St. James (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Coffee shops, wine bars, sneaker shops, beer bars, stationary shops, indie shops—if you can’t see the pattern, this street has a lot of bars and shops. Great for a night out, morning stroll, or midday snack. With the Big Bell of Bordeaux looming overhead, it makes for quite the picture too.

Bacalan District (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Formerly Bordeaux’s industrial district, now the entire area has been repurposed into giant outdoor art pieces, state-of-the-art museums, music venues, and spaces for shopping and food. A stark contrast when compared to the historic architecture of the city's center. 

Apollo Bar (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Beer, Wine
The ideal neighborhood bar: not too divey, not too stuffy, just the right amount of craft beers on tap, and a slew of cheap (only in terms of price) vintages available. 
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Librairie Mollat (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Books
Bordeaux’s oldest independent book shop. This place is a bibliophile’s dream. If you’re trying to find a rare print or the latest sneaker coffee table book, this is the spot. The whole store just seems to keep going and going, mostly because it nearly takes up an entire city block. 
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Wine More Time (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Wine
While you’re checking out the nightlife on Rue St. James, drop into this low-key wine bar for a glass of something special and a snack. Grab a few bottles to take home or enjoy in front of the shop while enjoying some quality people-watching.
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Cassonade (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Dessert
The best canelles in the city, full stop. Pop in, grab a dozen, eat them while making your way to your next destination, then double back to grab another dozen (it will happen). Also located on Rue St. James. This street has a lot to offer, if you can’t tell by now.    
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GREATEST HITS

La Cite du Vin (Tap to open in Google Maps)
As if the entire city wasn’t enough of a monument to the craft of winemaking, Cite du Vin is a closer look at Bordeaux’s greatest export. Interactive exhibitions, 3D holograms, a world-class wine shop, and a bar with a 360-degree view—this stunning space lends a deeper appreciation to not just wine but the soul of Bordeaux.

Medoc Wine Tour
Tourist stereotypes be damned, this one is well worth the time and effort. Touring the very thing the city is so famous for is one of the most rewarding experiences. Bouncing from chateau (French winemaker) to chateau, taking in the beautiful scenery, and tasting some of the world's best vintages—it’s an experience that will make an impression on your visit.
Cellar Tours
Viator
Ala Francaise

St. Andre Cathedral (Tap to open in Google Maps)
One of the most stunning monuments in Bordeaux, St. André Cathedral’s austere beauty resonates the moment you set eyes on it. Standing for nearly a millennium, the cathedral has been rebuilt over France’s many wars, yet its romanesque construction never ceases to inspire.

Cailhau Gate (Tap to open in Google Maps)
One of the best-preserved medieval gates in Europe, the Cailhau Gate once served as the main entrance into Bordeaux. Today, you can stare in bewildered wonder at this towering monument to the city’s past while enjoying a beer at one of the many surrounding cafes.

Jardin Public (Tap to open in Google Maps)
It shouldn’t come as a surprise that in a city so beautiful in its rawness, their public park would accomplish the same thing. Wander to the Museum of Natural History, past duck ponds, botanical gardens, and lovingly manicured greenery.

Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Serving as one of the most monumental icons of Bordeaux architecture, the Grand Theatre sits at the center of the city, and rightfully so. For over 300 years, it has served as a venue for some of the world’s most talented performers, including operas, ballets, orchestras, international conductors, and prestigious soloists.