FIND YOUR WAY IN COPENHAGEN
It’s difficult to put your finger on what makes Copenhagen so special. The city, the people, the food, the overall atmosphere that persists throughout—it all requires a closer look to uncover what makes it so unique. Foregoing the flash of massive skyscrapers or gilded palaces, the Danes have perfected the art of substance through subtle details. There’s clear evidence of it as you make your way through the city, and it’s precisely why Copenhagen has had an influence in nearly every industry that requires the same attention to detail. The level of culinary prowess ranging from street tacos to Michelin-starred restaurants, the high concentration of iconic design pieces, and even boasting one of the highest quality-of-living standards in the world—it’s all the result of focusing on the "finer details", which in turn just happens to generate the best result possible.
GETTING TO KNOW COPENHAGEN
The People: As Americans, we shout when excited; Danes are quite the opposite. It’s easiest to explain with a brief rundown of typical Danish codes of conduct. Operating under a principle known as the Law of Jante, doing things out of the ordinary and being overtly personally ambitious is not in keeping with Scandinavian norms. Tied directly to a highly elevated quality-of-life standard, individual effort is eschewed for more emphasis on the collective. It’s a bit odd when you first arrive, but just keep this principle top-of-mind, and your interactions will be a bit less jarring.
The Language: The native language is... Danish. Who would have guessed? Joking aside, it’s easy to get by as an English speaker, as it’s the second most used language in Copenhagen. With that said, be sure to memorize a few Danish phrases as a courtesy. Duolingo is a fantastic resource for learning any new language, especially if you want to get the fundamentals of a new language before a visit.
The Transit & Design: Being such an old city, it’s astounding how well thought out Copenhagen is in terms of modern living. It’s clear that this "emphasis on the collective" has been a mainstay of city life for centuries. The city’s transit system is based on the "Five Finger" plan, in which systems like trains, buses, and waterbuses spread out like fingers on a hand to provide a well-connected means of transport to its citizens. With over 250 miles of bike lanes, nearly 40% of people living in Copenhagen cycle daily. Step into any bike shop around the city, and they will most likely have bicycles for rent (usually 10–15 euros a day). Without a bike, the city is still very easy to navigate and very walkable. With green spaces and urban parks dotted along nearly every path, making your journey on foot will most likely reveal more reasons to explore.
The Money: Being part of the EU, you would think Denmark would use the Euro, but instead they use the Danish Krone (DKK). As a modern city, most shops and restaurants use chipped debit or credit cards, but keep in mind that smaller shops and bars might prefer cash.
THE ARRIVAL
Getting into Copenhagen is fairly simple. If you’re flying into Copenhagen Airport (Kastrup) there’s a train that takes you directly into the city; tickets cost 38 DKK, about $5.50. For connections from the Central Station, you’ll be able to hop on a bus or grab a taxi to your final destination. Uber and Lyft have been banned in Denmark, so city cabs are your only option for private rides.
THE FOOD & DRINK
Reffen: Take the open market/food hall concept, expand it to an entire island, and you have Reffen. Spanning nearly every local Scandinavian food and drink, this literal food island is a truly unique experience, especially during a visit in the summertime at sunset.
Hiya De Sanchez: I never thought that the best taco I would ever have would be in Copenhagen of all places. But it’s the truth. Whether you’re visiting their restaurant or taco stand, Noma Allum Chef Rosio Sanchez has created dishes that melt your brain with pure, unadulterated deliciousness.
Relae: It’s hard to maintain a balance between fine dining and a laidback atmosphere, but former Noma resident Chef Christian Puglisi has accomplished just that. Each dish and its wine pairing strength lies in its simple approach, which in turn allows the experience to feel more at home than away.
Host: With a modern focus on Nordic ingredients, Host provides a dining experience that’s true to its Danish roots while looking towards the future. If the food isn’t stunning enough, then the design of the space and the wine list are sure to pick up the slack.
Torvehallerne: We love food halls, especially when in a new city, because it gives you a quick look at the regional cuisine of where you’re staying. Stop in for some smorrebrod (open-faced sandwiches), fresh flowers, fish caught earlier that morning, beers, liquors, and so much more.
Mikkeler and Friends: There are quite a few heavy-hitting beer brands that call Copenhagen home, but our favorite has to be Mikkeler, which actually has a few of its own bars around the city. Pop in and enjoy a constantly rotating tap of seasonal draft beers.
GREATEST HITS
Tivoli: The world’s second-oldest amusement park, Tivoli is definitely worth the visit if you want to see where the template for the modern-day amusement park was born. Visiting during Christmas time is a truly beautiful experience thanks to the Dane’s inspiring obsession with the holiday.
Boat Tour: Some tourist attractions are attractions for good reason. Experiencing Copenhagen from the water offers a view that allows you to experience the city from a new point of view. Seeing the iconic architecture of Parliament contrasted against the stark modern lines of the Opera House or the Black Diamond (the Royal Library), the entire timeline of the city’s design is laid out before you.
Illums Bolighus: Imagine walking into Bloomingdales in NYC during its heyday in the 1950s, just with a Danish twist, and you have Illums. Filled with iconic design pieces, like the Hans Wegner Wishbone Chair, and modern items that carry on the tradition of simple design married with simple function, this place is heaven for any design geek.
Botanical Gardens: Situated across the river, the University Botanical Gardens is truly a sight to be seen. Housing a complex of greenhouses, acres of gardens, and even a butterfly house, the facility dates back to 1870, is free to the public, and is great if you’re trying to spot a rare red squirrel.
Design Museum: If you couldn’t tell by now, Copenhagen has been a powerhouse in the world of design for quite some time. Consider this museum a crash course on the evolution of Danish design. Furniture, poster design, architecture, art, fashion, and more—each exhibit showcases the widespread impact Danish design has had on the world.
TWO SIDES OF THE CITY
Never has one city exhibited such a stark seasonal contrast as Copenhagen does in the summer and the winter. Visit in July and you’re greeted to 70°F weather, long days filled with swimming off the pier of the Royal Library, and cool nights spent hanging outside bars into the wee hours of the night. Expect to encounter plenty of light wines, lots of biking, and mid-day dips into the nearest body of water. Visit in December, and the story is entirely different, but in the best way possible. While the days are short, the cold nights are filled with dishes that warm the belly while bouncing from spot to spot underneath a city draped in Christmas lights. Glogg wine, hygge, and warm fuzzy blankets are in heavy rotation during the cold months.