FIND YOUR WAY IN FLORENCE

Throw a dart at a map, and every time we pray for it to hit Florence. The atmosphere, the people, the food, the culture—nearly every detail of life in the city is unique in its own right, drawing on centuries of art, wealth, poverty, influence, religion, revolution, and any other concept that’s moved humanity forward. Let’s take a closer look at this Tuscan icon that has stood for over 2,000 years so you can find your way in and around it.

The Point Santa Trinita bridge, completed in 1569.

Fiat 500’s are still the primary vehicle of choice for many Florentine.

Fiat 500’s are still the primary vehicle of choice for many Florentine.

The best part of Florence (and Italy)…shop dogs.

The best part of Florence (and Italy)…shop dogs.

GETTING TO KNOW FLORENCE

The Name: Outside of Italy, it may be known as Florence, but when in Italy, it’s referred to as Firenze (Firentse).

The History: Okay, there’s lots of it. But, we’re going to do our best to give you a taste so when you visit you can feel the full effect. Dating back to the Roman Empire, the city was originally founded as a military colony, hence its walled enclosure, road layouts, and ancient sewer system. Over the centuries, the Arno River made it a valuable feather in the cap of any would-be rulers, catching the eyes of the Goths, the Byzantines, the Lombards, the Holy Roman Empire, and many more. From the 14th through 16th century, Florence really hit its stride, rising to world-wide prominence in the arts, learning, commerce, and finance. So much so that the city became one of the most impactful centers of influence during the Renaissance period. Dante, Da Vinci, Michelangelo, Machiavelli, Galileo, and those crafty Medici’s, just to name a few, all hailing from the Tuscan capital. The Florentine vernacular became what is commonly known as the Italian language. The local coin, the florin, became a monetary standard around the world. The sphere of Florence’s influence reached far beyond its walls to help shape the world we live in today.

The Money: Being a part of the EU, all of Italy uses the Euro. Shops, restaurants, and museums typically accept both cash and chip-enabled cards. As a simple rule of thumb, carry a small amount of cash on you just in case, but bigger expenses will accommodate card users.

The Language: In any country you’re visiting, it’s good to learn a bit of the native tongue. "Thank you,", "Sorry, do you speak English?"; "Please", "I’ll order…" The basics. With that said, it’s pretty easy to navigate Florence with minimal Italian lessons. There are a slew of language-learning apps available. Our favorite, Duolingo, uses an intuitive learning system to make picking up everyday phrases simple and easy.

 
 

Florence Cathedral aka Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore aka Duomo di Firenze.

The Art: The level of impact Florentine art has had on the world cannot be overstated. The birthplace of the Renaissance, with key players like the Medici Family, Da Vinci, Michelangelo, Botticelli, and so many more, kicked off a new age of thinking that forever changed the landscape of the modern world for centuries to come.

The Fashion: Fashion, as a whole, has roots that run deep throughout the city of Florence. Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, Roberto Cavalli, Emilio Pucci—several longstanding fashion houses call Florence home, along with smaller independent shops to help reinforce the influence of Florentine fashion.

The Walk: Prepare to walk a lot. Given the city’s age and footprint, mass transit isn’t necessary since most destinations will not be too far apart. At the same time, the density of the city can work against you, depending on how you plan your day. At least you’ll get plenty of opportunities to walk off all the food you'll be enjoying during your stay.

The Wait: Unless you’re popping in at a place that has quick bites behind the counter, be sure to check to make reservations for lunch and especially dinner. Most restaurants prep based on the night’s reservations, so popping in may not be an option.

The Bread: Grab a quick bite anywhere in Florence and you’ll notice something is missing. For centuries, Florentine bread has been made without have salt. The origin of this omission is a bit murky. Some say it’s the result of a salt blockade from the rival city of Pisa in the old days and some say it’s to balance the already salty nature of Florentine cuisine.

The Steak: La Bistecca is a culinary staple of Florence. The simply prepared slab of porterhouse cut, typically measuring in at 2–3 inches thick, is required eating while in Florence. We strongly suggest wearing some pants with a loose waist; you’re going to need the extra room.

The Tourists: Florence has played such a big role in molding the modern world and because of that, there is so much to learn from the city. With that said, April, May, June, September, and October typically see the highest number of people seeking to learn from all that Florence has to offer. In our experience, it’s best to arrive with managed expectations. Expect to see long lines and massive crowds, and the reality will not be so overwhelming. The lines, the crowds, and the sea of iPads and selfie sticks, are worth tolerating when the payoff is so stunning.

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Galileo street art tagged on a wall of the Galileo Museum.

Dante Alighieri hailed from Florence, visiting his museum is a must.

Bringing Florence into the Modern Era, street art is dotted all around the city.


THE ARRIVAL

Learn this map good and well, lest you enjoy enduring a sweaty panic attack in the middle of an Italian train station.

Making your way into the heart of Florence is easy enough, once you know a few ins and outs. Arriving from the airport or another city will typically involve using the train, meaning your destination will be Santa Maria Novella. Tickets can be purchased at the station or online.

Buy your Italy train tickets here.

Word to the wise: for your departure, be sure to research the route number. Italy’s transit system is a bit backwards in that they only list the departure station and terminal station, as opposed to any of the stops in between. Speaking from personal experience, this can leave one in a panic-induced sweat while scrambling to keep themselves from being Kevin McCalister’d in an Italian train station.

Train App: Google Store

THE NEIGHBORHOODS

Oltrarno
Meaning ”beyond the Arno”, this neighborhood is one of the trendiest and most authentic neighborhoods in Florence. Home to a wealth of galleries, artisan workshops and lush gardens by day and a buzzing bar scene and outdoor dining culture after dark.

Sant’Ambrogio
Charming old-town village vibes paired with daily open-air markets always make for some of the best spots in any city. You can find Florentine residents bustling about throughout the day, keeping it one of the central parts of the city that still has a very local feel to it.

Santo Spirito
One of the best neighborhoods for a truly local feel, along with some of the best restaurants and bars in the city. Saved from the tourist traps around the city, Santo Spirito is brimming with charming shops and food that represent the genuine modern charm of Florence.

San Lorenzo

Although its busier streets can be a bit overcrowded with tourists, this is one of the best neighborhoods for homemade leather goods or other quality local goods without shelling out a premium.

A modern take on a Florentine classic, La Bistecca.

Creamy Risoto and Grains at La Menagerie.

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THE FOOD & DRINK

Writing about the food in Florence is difficult, in the best way possible. When you have so many establishments serving up some of the best dishes created, just picking a handful seems a bit limiting, so consider this just the tip of the iceberg.

  • Mercato Centrale
    Also: Wine, Coffee

    Located in San Lorenzo, this deeply expansive indoor food market is one of the best places to take a deep dive into the local flavors of Florence.

    La Menagere
    Also: Coffee, Cocktails, Wine, Music
    Restaurant, bar coffee shop, flower shop, homewares, let’s just say this place has a lot to offer. Certainly worth the visit if you’re seeking a blend of old Italian charm and sharp modern takes.
    Website | Instagram | Facebook

    Zeb
    Tight quarters complement Tuscan dishes paired with a diligently selected wine list. Take a quick look around the tightly packed space, and you’ll notice just two people running the whole show: a mother-son duo creating incredible dishes and serving up wines to match. Great for a post-Piazzale Michelangelo bite of modern takes on Florentine classics.
    Website

    Casa Del Vino
    Also: Wine
    After a century in business, this local staple is proof that all you need is a good glass of wine and local food to be happy. And damn, are they correct. Enjoy any dish alongside a couple bottles and take in the laid-back beauty of Tuscan traditions.
    Website | Facebook

    Da Nerbone
    Nearly 150 years old, Da Berbone has been serving Florence some of the best sandwiches and Tuscan comfort foods longer than most democracies have lasted. It's a double-header visit, not only because of the food but also because it’s located in Mercato Centrale, Florence’s historic market.
    Facebook

    Natalino
    Some dishes have the ability to lift even the heaviest of spirits. Come low and you’ll leave on a high. Hell, come high, and you’ll leave with such a satisfied grin on your face they’ll have to retake your passport photo. Situated in an elegant and simple old church, classic Tuscan fare is filtered through a heavy lens of seasonality, with each understated dish speaking softly yet carrying a big stick of flavor. Website | Instagram | Facebook

    Osteria dell'Enoteca
    Also: Wine
    Meat lovers meet (see what I did there?) one of the best purveyors of meat in Florence. The wine list is nothing to scoff at either. It may be new in Florentine terms (opened in 2017), but this trattoria is fast establishing itself as the latest legend on the Tuscan culinary scene.
    Website | Instagram

    Il Santo Bevitore
    Also: Wine
    Grab a table for an incredible Tuscan meal or pop in for some of the best bottles you can find in the city. Come with a willing appetite; the portion sizes give even the Florentine a run for their money.

  • Locale
    Tucked away in a Renaissance-era palace, the dark and moody atmosphere of Locale is a well-matched contrast to the refined and delicate menu offerings. The cocktail game is strong, which helps or hurts (depending on your outlook on life) when the bill arrives.
    Website | Instagram | Facebook

    Essenziale
    Nobody can escape the global influence in today’s world. While the Italian kitchen rarely mixes with other parties, Essenziale is an object lesson in the upside of exposing tradition to something a little different. Several international dishes and ingredients make cameo appearances throughout the seasonal menu, illustrating the impact of how much further
    Website | Facebook

    Konnubio
    Also: Vegan, Cocktails
    Seasonal plates with a contemporary twist—chef Beatrice Segoni is one of the most celebrated chefs in Florence. Every dish, including her vegan offerings, is something that must be experienced. Oh yeah, and the cocktail list is one of the best in the city.
    Website | Instagram | Facebook

  • La Menagere
    Also: Traditional, Coffee, Cocktails, Wine, Music
    Restaurant, bar, coffee shop, flower shop, homewares, music venue, let’s just say this place has a lot to offer. Certainly worth the visit if you’re seeking a blend of old Italian charm and sharp modern takes.
    Website | Instagram | Facebook

    Casa Del Vino
    Also: Traditional, Wine
    After a century in business, this local staple is proof that all you need is a good glass of wine and local food to be happy. And damn, are they correct. Enjoy any dish alongside a couple bottles and take in the laid back beauty of Tuscan traditions.
    Website | Facebook

    Osteria dell'Enoteca
    Also: Traditional, Wine
    Meat lovers meet (see what I did there?) one of the best purveyors of meat in Florence. The wine list is nothing to scoff at either. It may be new in Florentine terms (opened in 2017), but this trattoria is fast establishing itself as the latest legend on the Tuscan culinary scene.
    Website | Instagram

    Konnubio
    Also: Fine-dining, Vegan, Cocktails
    Seasonal plates with a contemporary twist—chef Beatrice Segoni is one of the most celebrated chefs in Florence. Every dish, including her vegan offerings, is something that must be experienced. Oh yeah, and the cocktail list is one of the best in the city.
    Website | Instagram | Facebook

    Pint of View
    Also: Beer, Wine, Cocktails
    Where passion for artisanal beer and cocktails and delectable food meet. Stop in for a European craft beer or cocktail and stay for dinner. Pair a few unique drinks with even more unique food.
    Website | Instagram | Facebook

    Bitter Bar
    Also: Cocktails, Wine
    A blend of cocktail expertise and gastronomic focus, each creation aims to hit all five senses. A unique experience to say the least, arrive with an open mind and enjoy some drinks you can’t find anywhere else.
    Website | Instagram | Facebook

    Il Santo Bevitore
    Also: Wine, Traditional
    Grab a table for an incredible Tuscan meal or pop in for some of the best bottles you can find in the city. Come with a willing appetite, the portion sizes give even the Florentine a run for their money.

    Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina
    Also: Wine
    Enjoy a glass of high-end, mostly Tuscan wine from niche producers, while enjoying the sites across the way at the Pitti Palace.
    Website | Facebook

    Mercato Centrale
    Also: Traditional, Coffee

    Located in San Lorenzo, this deeply expansive indoor food market is one of the best places to take a deep dive into the local flavors of Florence.

  • Shake Cafè
    Also: Coffee, Vegan
    Emphasizing health, freshness, simplicity, and quickness, Shake is great for something light, quick, and fresh. Offering coffee, fresh pressed juices, and vegan baked goods, this is the spot if you need a break from the onslaught of pastas and Florentine steaks.
    Website | Facebook | Instagram

    La Strega Nocciola
    One of the oldest purveyors of gelato in the city. Our personal favorite gelato shop has to be La Strega Nocciola. The pistachio and buonalenti flavors alone make the entire trip worth it.
    Website | Instagram | Facebook

    Dolci e Dolcezze
    Also: Bakery, Dessert, Coffee
    Pastries and other baked goods that give the French a run for their money. A great spot to dip in for a sugar fix and an espresso pick-me-up before you brave the ever-increasing hoards of crowds.
    Instagram

    S.forno
    Also: Bakery, Dessert
    Dip in for a quick bite on-the-go or grab a seat and enjoy the sweet smells of fresh baked breads, tangy tarts, and so many other sweet treats.
    Facebook

  • Ditta Artigianale
    If you’re having trouble finding a good cup of coffee in Florence, this place will be your salvation. Ditta is well-regarded as making some of the best coffee in town, and it also sells a selection of beans to take home and make for yourself. Stop by, grab a drink and take in the casual and exciting scene.
    Website | Instagram | Facebook

    Oblate Cafeteria
    Inside an unassuming library, sits this gem of an open-air cafe at the top level with quite the view. Getting there can be a bit tricky, follow the elevator signs or take the stairs to the top floor, and you’ll be treated to one of the closest views you can get of the duomo.
    Facebook

    Shake Cafè
    Also: Vegan, Bakery
    Emphasizing health, freshness, simplicity, and quickness, Shake is great for something light, quick, and fresh. Offering coffee, fresh pressed juices, and vegan baked goods, this is the spot if you need a break from the onslaught of pastas and Florentine steaks.
    Website | Facebook | Instagram

  • Shake Cafè
    Also: Coffee, Bakery
    Emphasizing health, freshness, simplicity, and quickness, Shake is great for something light, quick, and fresh. Offering coffee, fresh pressed juices, and vegan baked goods, this is the spot if you need a break from the onslaught of pastas and Florentine steaks.
    Website | Facebook | Instagram

    Ristorante Quinoa
    Also: Gluten-Free
    Taking full advantage of Florence’s incredible produce, this trattoria specializes mostly in gluten-free fare, but they can always be counted on for creative vegan options and dishes.Website | Instagram | Facebook

    Konnubio
    Also: Fine-dining, Vegan, Cocktails
    Seasonal plates with a contemporary twist—chef Beatrice Segoni is one of the most celebrated chefs in Florence. Every dish, including her vegan offerings, is something that must be experienced. Oh yeah, and the cocktail list is one of the best in the city.
    Website | Instagram | Facebook

A typical Florence breakfast spread.

A more traditional take on La Bistecca. Yes, naps were had after this meal.

Pre-meal drinks like an Aperol Spritz are common place.

SHOPPING AROUND TOWN

While the food in Florence is in a league of its own, it doesn’t represent everything the city has to offer. When taking breaks from eating everything in Florence, visiting shops around the city shows how the city blends modern commerce with old world charm.

Toto Modo: Bookshop and wine bar soaked in Florentine character. Pop in to find anything from Italian children’s books to more classic literary staples, or just sit back and enjoy a Spritz amongst like-minded readers.

Boutique Nadine: Offering vintage women’s pieces, Boutique Nadine's refined selection reflects the sophisticated and contemporary style found throughout Florentine fashion.

Desii Vintage: Specializing in vintage men’s and women’s clothing, shoes, and more, it’s always exciting to dig through this store's varied inventory.

Marie Antoinette: Focusing on women’s high-end fashion, this boutique offers rare pieces that would be difficult to find anywhere else.

Mario Bemer: As one of Florence’s premiere independent shoe makers, Mario Bemer offers finely crafted leather shoes that would rival any examples from the big fashion houses.

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Grab a drink and settle in with a book in the reading room at Todo Modo.

Unless you’re on a mission to pick up an overpriced Rolex, best to avoid the shops on the Ponte Vecchio

Unless you’re on a mission to pick up an overpriced Rolex, best to avoid the shops on the Ponte Vecchio

WORTH THE WAIT

As one of the most visited cities on Earth, Florence is always bustling with activity. While some attractions may boost long lines and big crowds, there are a handful of spots that we would gladly endure again and again.

Piazzale Michelangelo
One of the best views in all of Florence. This one depends on the time of day. Early, real early, aka sunrise, is going to be your best bet to beat crowds, but if you can’t make that work, an afternoon sunset will suffice. The sunset crowd can be incredibly overwhelming, but once you see the skyline of Florence set against the glowing Tuscan sun, you’ll know it was worth the effort.

Uffizi
Dating back to 1581, this museum boasts some of the greatest Renaissance era works of art. Aside from the art inside, the building’s presence and design are worth enduring the hordes of people crowding its halls. 

Boboli Gardens at Pitti Palace
I remember this one well. The line for tickets was way longer than other plans would permit. We decided to suffer the wait and forgo the rest of our plans. The wait paid off. The clouds parted as we entered the gardens, and we were treated to one of the best days we had during our stay.

Florence Cathedral Tower
Vying for the best view in Florence. The wait to get into the tower may be lengthy, but once you make it to the top, the visual spectacle of seeing Brunelleschi’s dome framed by the clay roofs of Florence will never fade.

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The Gardens at the Pitti Palace are always a welcome reprieve from the crowds.

The view from the Piazzale Michelangelo never disappoints.

GET LOST

This is always a great way to find your own way in a new city, but it's especially true in Florence. Over 2,000 years of art, cultural milestones, fashion, and food have created a space that unveils a welcomed surprise around every corner. On my first visit to Florence, the first day was set aside for random exploring, which resulted in stumbling upon Dante’s home, some of the best gelato I’ve ever had, and stunning views that will forever be imprinted on the way I see Florence. So, get lost, take a wrong turn, find a new road to set down on—it’s the best way to see a city for what it truly is.

Early morning exploration help brings the raw, aged beauty of Florence into focus.

Bouncing around late at night shows a different side of Florence.

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