FIND YOUR WAY IN LISBON
What’s required to scratch the surface of Lisbon aka Lisboa. A lot. I mean A LOT. Let’s just say even after a week-long stay, you’ll keep finding reasons to return: blue skies, seared octopus, well-preserved port wines, architecture that revels in its beauty and rawness, elevation changes that’ll turn your ass into that of an Olympian-level gymnast. From the bottom to the top of the seven hills that make up the city, you’ll encounter wines that redefine the meaning of life; food that makes you believe in a higher power; people who inspire living at a more present pace; history spanning back long before the baby Jesus; and so, so much more.
ARRIVAL/GETTING AROUND LISBON
Making your way into city is pretty simple. If you’re flying into Lisbon Portela Airport, taking the train from the airport into the city center is your standard procedure. Aeroporto to Oriente or Lisboa Santa Apolonia to be specific, tickets will run about €3. For arrival via train, you’ll most likely get off at Oriente or Lisboa Santa Apolonia, once you’ve arrived an Uber or cab is your best bet to make it to your final destination, unless you feel like dragging your luggage up some seriously steep cobblestoned hills.
Lisbon MyTaxi iOS
Lisbon MyTaxi Android
Getting around sort of depends on what you’re trying to get out of experience. Do you want to explore every nook and cranny of the city? Make your way on foot. Expect uneven walking surfaces combined with hills that give San Francisco a run for its money. The type of discoveries made on foot are difficult to come by via car in such a densely packed city. When your legs have finally had it, there’s a network of trams, streetcars, and funiculars throughout the city, but be warned, it’s a more leisurely alternative to getting around. Thanks to all the old, winding streets and elevation changes, public transit is on the bumpier and slower side of things. If you’re hoping to hit the train with your morning coffee, expect severe burns.
GETTING TO KNOW LISBON
The People: The best way to get a feel for the social vibe of a city? Find a local bar near your place, grab a drink (Porto Tonico in Lisbon’s case), and camp out for an hour or two. Interacting with the bartender and locals helps build a base for how you interact and hold yourself in the city. Hanging for a few hours at the bar at Bistro 100 Maneiras, I was able to gleam a valuable insight into the people of Lisbon. The most important: if you need something, say something. They’re accommodating but aware of the value of an individual’s autonomy. They’re friendly but not overbearing. Lisboans strike a rare balance of living in the moment while still maintaining the pace expected from such a vibrant city.
The Language: Portuguese is an interesting language. Parts sound Spanish, some sound French, and other bits sound Russian. Walking through the tiny alleyways of Lisbon, your brain latches onto familiar phrases overheard, then simultaneously breaks it when that same person sounds as if they’re shuffling through multiple languages within the same breath. Hearing and speaking the language can be a bit tricky, along with the reading and phonetics of it all. Maybe it’s just my dumb brain that kept me from getting a full grasp. Word to the wise: keeping a list of common phrases is always going to serve you well. With all that said, Lisbon is an ever-growing international destination with a thriving tourist scene, so you’ll be able to get by speaking English or very broken Portuguese (speaking from experience) in most interactions. For a baseline of the language, be sure to check out Duolingo.
Port Wine: An early afternoon aperitif or a night cap to punctuate a savory dinner, Port is best enjoyed at the same pace set throughout the city—slow. Take a seat, preferably somewhere with a view, browse what is likely a long list of Port varieties, and take in the scenery and aged complexity of this treasured national libation.
Pastel de Nata: You’ll find these tasty egg tarts at nearly any Portuguese bakery or breakfast spot. Think of them as little baby soufflés with a croissant crust. Be sure to pop into Pasteis de Belem (suffer the line; it’s worth it) for the most traditional take on the dessert. They take it so seriously that their recipe has remained a secret since 1837, so you know it’s going to be good.
Vinho Verde: Literally translated to "green wine,", don’t be disappointed when your glass looks a bit more white than expected. "Green" really just means younger grapes that are aged in steel vats. The result? A fresh and floral profile that lends to its refreshing nature, perfect after climbing nearly 100 flights of stairs while exploring Lisbon.
Seafood: We’re keeping this one broad because it’s nearly impossible to go wrong with any type of seafood dish when in Lisbon. Ceviche scallops, a simply grilled branzini, seafood stew on a cold day — better than any version you’ve had before. A personal favorite, seared octopus served with sweet potatoes, is available mostly anywhere and fantastic no matter how it’s prepared.
Porto Tonico: Another refreshing staple of Portuguese nightlife 1/3 port wine, 2/3 tonic water, served over ice with a lemon garnish. Sip and try not to make that refreshed ‘ahhhhh’ noise too loud.
Trasca: Portuguese tapas. All the meats, cheeses, and grilled snacks your little heart can desire. ‘Nuff said.
Octopus with sweet potato is always a safe bet.
After all that climbing and walking, cap the night off with a well-deserved Port.
STOP BY FOR A SPELL
Time Out Market (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Lisbon’s food hall game is strong, with this one standing at the top of the heap. Visit here at the start of your trip for a quick crash course in Lisboan foods, from the meats and cheeses all the way to Octopus Hotdogs. Stop in early for the traditional produce and seafood market from which the food hall was born.
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A Cevicheria (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Stop by for a quick pisco sour and snack outside, or stay for a mix of Portuguese and Asian-inspired dishes. Always busy from the minute they open their doors, so be sure to make a reservation in advance; it’s well worth the wait.
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Gin Lovers & Less (Tap to open in Google Maps)
The offering’s in the name. Over 60 varieties of gins, presented in cocktails new and old, located inside an 18th-century Moorish palace... yeah, the whole thing is a lot to take in and certainly worth the visit. You’ll find it inside the Embaixada Concept Store, and be sure to check out the shops on the level above after a few Negronis.
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Cervejaria Ramiro (Tap to open in Google Maps)
One of the busiest and most popular seafood restaurants in Lisbon, and for very good reason. Suffer the long wait with the knowledge that you’ll be rewarded with some of the best damn seafood creations you’ve ever had. It’s no coincidence that this purveyor of comforting seafood dishes has been drawing a crowd since 1956.
Prado (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Step into the lush, light-filled atrium, and it’ll be easy to guess what kind of dishes are served in this former factory space: fresh, organic, and local. Prado has made a name for itself by applying raw creativity to the meats, produce, and wines local to Portugal.
Ponto Final (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Perched on the edge of a pier on the Targus River, Ponto Final takes the idea of waterfront dining to its natural conclusion. Have a few too many sips of port, and you’ll be making the walk home a good deal more soggy than when you arrived. Firmly plant yourself in your seat for fresh seafood and incredible fish stews that are likely to be the culinary all-stars of your stay in Lisbon.
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Bou Bou’s (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Located in the Principe Real neighborhood, Bou Bou’s is the result of two veteran chefs putting an international spin on Portuguese cuisine. With dishes like prawns married with Koshu (a Japanese spirit) or elevating comfort foods with their rabbit croquets, this predominantly female-led kitchen takes Lisbon’s global atmosphere to a whole new level.
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Embaixada Concept Store (Tap to open in Google Maps)
In the same building as Gin Lovers & Less is a collection of local shops selling everything from cork accessories to locally-made furniture to custom-tailored suiting. A warning to the impulsive buyers: check out the shops before having a drink downstairs lest you enjoy those last-minute, under the influence, big purchases.
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LxFactory (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Inside an abandoned factory estate has risen one of Lisbon’s top destinations for incredible food, unique shopping, and a burgeoning street art scene that would give any hipster-infested borough a run for its money. Make time to give this place a visit, and be sure to arrive hungry.
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Apaixonarte (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Life in Lisbon draws heavily on its rich art scene. As the older, more classic art styles are present throughout the city, you can see its influence in more modern forms. One place to see it most evidently at this little gallery space, where pieces offered are mostly local and give you a glimpse into the present and even future styles of Lisbon art.
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Sapataria Do Carmo (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Lisbon is fairly well-known for its high concentration of craftsmen. This local shoemaker has been regarded as one of the best in the country for generations. A purchase at this shop won’t be cheap, but you’ll be hard-pressed to find shoes made to this standard of quality and care anywhere else.
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GREATEST HITS
Day trip to Sintra (Moorish Castle) (Tap to open in Google Maps)
The trip from Lisbon to Sintra is a simple one. Buy a ticket at Rossio Station, in the city center, for €4.30, ride the train for about 40–45 minutes, and you’ve arrived. Be sure to make the hike up to the Moorish Castle, hands down the most breathtaking part of Sintra. The rich history of the structure and how well Sintra has preserved the space is truly astounding.
Entrance Price: €8.
Belém Tower (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Hop the Cais do Sodré train, ride it to Belem Station, and get treated to this 16th-century monument to Portugal’s Age of Discovery. Originally serving as a focal point for ships, the Manueline-styled fortress was the last thing sailors would see before setting out on the open sea.
Entrance Price: €6.
Pasteis de Belem (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Cranking out nearly 20,000 pastries every day, this Lisboan staple is where you go to get the most authentic Pastéis de Nata experience. Using the same recipe since 1837, these delicious custard tarts have become synonymous with Portuguese food culture and history.
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MAAT (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Perched over the waters of the Targus river, the Museum of Art, Architecture, and Technology serves as the new cultural center for the future of Lisbon. Presenting national and international exhibits, the stunning design of the space stands as a testament to Portuguese influence within the artistic, architectural, and thinking space. Be sure to check it out on your way to Belem Tower.
Entrance Price: €5
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Church of Sao Roque (Tap to open in Google Maps)
While its exterior may be relatively plain and unassuming, step inside to witness a truly awe-inspiring scene. Such an ornately designed space isn’t cheap to build, which is why this chapel reigns as the most expensive chapel in the world. Tucked off to the side of one of Lisbon’s busier streets, be sure to pop in and take in the splendor of this gilded masterpiece.
Entrance Price: Free in the Church
Museum €2.50, Free on Sundays
Praça do Comércio (Tap to open in Google Maps)
In 1755, when an earthquake nearly leveled the city, this emblematic square was constructed where the palace used to stand. Serving as the unofficial entrance into Lisbon, it serves as a testament to the city’s resilience. Give it a visit and take in the stark beauty of its open-air design in one of the densest cities in Europe.
Carmo Convent (Tap to open in Google Maps)
While stunning spaces like Praça do Comércio were built out of the earthquake’s destruction, Carmo Convent's former beauty is preserved thanks to what the earthquake left behind. In the ruins of a structure that served as the city’s focal point of culture and learning, the convent now stands as a reminder of all that was lost in the disaster.
The Tile
Ok, this one isn’t necessarily a specific place, but it’s such a defining part of Lisbon and Portugal that we’d be remiss if it wasn't included. Take a step in any direction and you’re sure to encounter tile decoration in nearly every variety: solid colors covering townhouses, entire cathedrals decorated in blue images painted across white tile, even government buildings benefit from geometric tile adornments.
Address: Everywhere