FIND YOUR WAY IN LYON
A well-kept secret. A sleeper hit. A dark horse. There are so many ways to describe Lyon. Each and every one of them emphasizes the city’s subtle and unassuming atmosphere. It doesn’t make much effort to shout about itself like its bigger Parisian and coastal counterparts. The whole city lives in this unaffected bubble of "we’re just doing our own thing, and it’s not a big deal" mentality. No grand statements or philosophies on how to live the ideal French life, just an approach that welcomes you in without any sort of fanfare. "Welcome to Lyon; we have some of the best food you’ll ever eat, the most beautiful architecture you’ll lay your eyes on, and a way of living that is authentically French, but try not to make a big deal out of it." It’s a city full of contradictions, but the kind that pique your interest and curiosity more and more with each new discovery. Once you start digging into the real substance of Lyon, it’s hard to break yourself from the draw of its understated and enchanting charm.
As France’s third-biggest city, Lyon has made its mark on French, European, and world culture more than it would ever care to boast. Walk into any Michelin-starred establishment and you’ll discover dishes, techniques, and approaches to fine dining that can be traced directly back to Lyon, the gastronomic capital of France. The demi-gods of the French kitchen, like Paul Bucose and Mère Brazier, are held to standards that exceed even those of the saints who are enshrined in the grand cathedrals throughout the city. Just like the city’s cuisine, so much of Lyon is anchored to long-regarded traditions that haven’t been treated as untouchable but more as points of progress. The design and architecture throughout the city harken back to its rich past, while its residents carry on the tradition of preserving their history while still moving the city forward into the future. That’s not to say that the Lyonnaise people are in a rush to see the arrival of a more metropolitan and rushed life. The entire pace of the city has more of an intimate and small-town feel than Paris or Marseille. Time and intention are weighed and dedicated appropriately, so much so that after a couple of days into your stay, you’ll feel this disarming wave of calm and contentment wash over you as you polish off your second bottle of wine during a 2-hour lunch at your favorite Buchon (a traditional bistro).
Arrival/Departure
Being one of the biggest cities in France, the road to Lyon is a relatively hassle-free affair. If you’re flying directly into Lyon, chances are you’ll be flying into Lyon–Saint Exupéry Airport (LYS). From there, hop on the RhoneExpress tram for a 32-kilometer ride to the city’s main train station, Lyon Part Dieu. If you’re making your way to Lyon from Paris, the easiest route is by train. With a quick ride clocking in at about two and a half hours, it’s easy to make the journey without wrecking your whole day being stuck on a train.
Getting Around Lyon
The city’s transit system is sufficient for getting you where you need to be with enough planning. The network in Lyon is run by TCL and consists of 4 metro lines, 5 tram lines, 2 funicular railways, and lots of bus lines. Thanks to its density, you most likely won’t spend too much time traveling between locations with proper timing and a bit of walking. TCL tickets can be purchased near any bus, train, or water taxi stops. Single ride tickets cost €1.80, with a number of multiple ticket options, and can be used on any form of public transport (trains, buses, funiculars, and ferries). With over 180 miles of cycling paths, getting around via bicycle is a great alternative to mass transit. Keep an eye out for Velo’v rental bikes with their distinguishable red mudguards. It's best to avoid any car rentals; parking is a mess and hard to come by; combine that with the aforementioned density, and you’ll quickly realize your little box on wheels is pretty useless the closer you get to the city center. If you’re in need of a quick car ride, city cabs or Uber are going to be your best bet.
Getting to Know Lyon
The People: Most people’s first question in regards to Lyon is "How does it compare to Paris?" It’s similar to comparing apples to 19th-century Prussian naval warfare tactics... The question itself is a nonstarter. Paris is not French; it’s Parisian; it exists in its own universe. Now Lyon...Lyon is where you’ll find the true French. It’s people have perfected the "art of living", meaning art, food, wine, culture, friends, and family all exist within a well-executed and balanced system. As a visitor, the Lyonnaise people will welcome anyone who adopts a similar approach. Nothing is rushed; everything has a purpose, big or small. While you can expect the usual French aloofness at first impression, be patient, slow yourself, and open your eyes a bit more, and the endearing nature of the people of Lyon will reveal itself.
The History: Making your way throughout the city, you’ll find hints of nearly every period in Lyon’s long history. Thanks to avoiding many mass destruction events (extensive bombings, earthquakes, fires, etc.), everything from its Roman occupation to its Renaissance era to its forward-thinking modern architecture is always on full display. The Roman Empire made good use of it as a settlement for refugees of war in 43 BC. As the settlement developed into a functioning city, its location between the Saône and Rhône rivers made it a valuable asset. Over time, it has been a part of the Kingdom of the Burgundians, the Holy Roman Empire, the Kingdom of Arles, and finally France in the 14th century. During Europe’s Renaissance period, Lyon became the hot spot for silk trade, leading to an era of heavy development for the city. Two centuries later, Lyon was struck with turmoil and violence during the French Revolution, leading to a two-month siege of the city in 1793. In 1895, Louis and Auguste Lumière shot the first moving picture—of workers exiting their father’s photographic factory—marking the birth of cinema. During WWII, Lyon fell under Nazi occupation while still remaining a hub for the French Resistance. Today, the city serves as a major center for French banking, biotechnology, and pharmaceutical industries.
The Language: If you’re going to France, it's best to learn a bit of French. Getting to know some of the language will not only help you get around but also allow you to better understand the way people live. One could say that the French are very insular, so adapting to their cultural norms will show you’re making an effort to truly experience this country rather than just using it as a prolonged Instagram story. There are a slew of language learning apps available. Our favorite, Duolingo, uses an intuitive learning system to pick up on everyday phrases.
The Food: The most likely reason for most people visiting Lyon? The city’s rich gastronomic scene dives deep into the heart of the French kitchen. Regarded as the food capital of France, Lyon boasts over 2,000 restaurants along its dense web of avenues and alleys. From the Bouchons serving up traditional Lyonnaise fare to some of the best croissants you will ever have the pleasure of devouring, every culinary experience, no matter how pedestrian or white clothed, is likely to stand out as a new benchmark. While traditional French dishes reign supreme, the incredibly high level of cooking has brought every type of cuisine to an equal level of refinement. Sample from the Michelin-decorated culinary institutions to the scrappy street dishes; every bite will surely be one to remember.
While the food is forward-thinking, the operation of many restaurants sticks closer to small-town standards. Many establishments close on Sunday and/or Monday. Family restaurants tend to be open for lunch and dinner but close in between. Most establishments plan meals according to the number of bookings, so be sure to make reservations a couple hours or even a day ahead if you have a particular restaurant in mind.
A few dishes to try while in Lyon:
Saint-Marcellin cheese (a soft, delicate goat milk cheese)
Bresse chicken (considered the best, these chickens have an "appellation d’origine controlee" status)
Lyonnaise salad (frisée lettuce topped with a poached egg, thick bacon and a warm vinaigrette dressing)
Saucisson brioche (sausage baked in pastry dough)
Quenelles (pike dumplings with a Béchamel and crayfish sauce)
Tarte Lyonnaise (a characteristic red praline tart)
The Drink: In France, cafe life IS life. A quintessential French pastime, drinks are enjoyed among friends while taking in the passing sights of the city from the inviting glow of an outdoor patio. Unsurprisingly, wine is the drink of choice among most Lyon residences, and while the craft cocktail scene seems to be slowly gaining steam, the offerings are a bit more limited than what’s available in the states. The same does not go for the craft beer scene; each week, more breweries and brew pubs are serving up new varieties of beer, both local and international. Slowly transforming into a brewer’s paradise, Lyon is showing the world just how bold French beers can be.
The Weather: The busiest travel months in Lyon are May through July due to warm temperatures. Nothing too hot though. Average temps in the warmest month, July, are about 83.9 degrees Fahrenheit. Considered to be a less temperate area than other regions in France, your best bet to avoid rainy weather is going to be in March, April, June, and September. If you’re looking for a window of the most ideal weather when visiting, shoot for April 23rd to October 21st based on average temperature and humidity from NOAA (the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration).
Stop by for Spell
Slake Coffee (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Grab some of the best coffee available in Lyon and enjoy the eclectically unique space in this warm and intimate coffee shop. Pick from a mountain of pastries made fresh every day or any other health-focused dishes from the New Zealand and French-inspired menu.
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Broc Bar (Tap to open in Google Maps)
The cafe scene in Lyon is strong, so there's plenty of options to get your ‘laid back, hanging and drinking’ fix. Broc Bar is one of the best spots for fuss-free drinks while enjoying the lights of the city. Maybe it’s the atmosphere, maybe it’s the crowd, maybe it’s the libations; whatever it is, it’s the ideal place to wind down after a busy day of exploring.
Bouchon Sully (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Bouchons are a staple of Lyon’s history. Serving traditional dishes like Salade Lyonnaise, Coq au vin (Rooster in wine sauce), or Fonds d’Artichauts aux Foie Gras (artichoke and pate), bouchons preserve the culinary traditions of the city. Bouchon Sully is a great hybrid of traditional cuisine at the crossroads of innovative flavors and modern techniques. Dishes are tweaked to bring a new flair to an already well-established gastronomic tradition.
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Chez Leon (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Located inside the Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, Chez Leon is the spot for some of the best seafood in the city. Drop in for fresh fish, oysters, prawns, and other fresh catches while enjoying a bottle from their carefully curated wine list. Once you’re done eating way more than you thought you ever could, be sure to walk around the food hall for dessert or an aperitif from the dozens of other vendors.
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Partisan Boulanger (Tap to open in Google Maps)
No pretense, no hassle, no frills—just quality baked goods. Using organic ingredients, this bakery doesn’t hold back on using the best raw materials available to create some of the most delicious crispy breads and pastries available in the city. Located high up in the hills, be sure to make the early morning walk and hop in line; you won’t regret it.
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Food Traboule (Tap to open in Google Maps)
A newer take on the traditional food hall, this rotating collection of talented chefs are energizing the culinary scene in Lyon. Diving into a multitude of cuisines, there’s something for everyone. Located in the renovated and restored Pink Rose (Pink Tower), the electric atmosphere in its communal space matches the innovative nature of each dish being created in the open-aired kitchens.
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Soda Bar (Tap to open in Google Maps)
While Lyon leans more into the wine and beer scene, there’s a handful of brilliant cocktail bars worth checking out. Soda Bar is certainly at the top of the list. Not too wild with their drinks, this intimate haunt offers classic and creative cocktails without shouting about it too loudly. A great spot for a simple drink or a late-night, low-key hang with friends.
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La Voguette (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Drop into this neighborhood bistro for a lovingly crafted drink of your choice paired nicely with a curated meat and cheese plates. Enjoy the cozy, velvet-draped scenery in their lounge with a cocktail, wine, or beer in hand. Be sure to check out the upstairs section for a warm respite during the cold months or their sun-drenched patio during the summer.
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Greatest Hits
Musee Confluence (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Museum and monolithic jewel seemingly rising out of the Rhone. The Musee des Confluence exhibits scientific and anthropological treasures, both local and international. Beyond its wild and the quintessentially French presentation of its exhibitions, the Museum is a sight in itself, operating as the nerve center for modern and forward-thinking architecture in a city where the buildings echo the character of its history.
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Parc de la Tête D'or (Tap to open in Google Maps)
One of the most breathtaking spaces available to the public, Parc de la Tête D'or’s massive size always leaves a stunning impression. With a zoo, a boating lake, botanical gardens, a miniature railway, a dog park, bicycle trails, and so much more, the park has something for everyone to enjoy. Since 1857, residents and visitors alike have been inspired by its beautiful landscapes, gorgeous gardens, and ornate architecture.
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Brasserie George (Tap to open in Google Maps)
A bit of a tourist trap, but honestly one that’s worth it if you want to experience the allure and bright lights of art deco opulence. As the oldest and largest brasserie in Europe, the environment is always bustling and the food is as traditional as it gets. Operating since 1836, the people who’ve walked through its doors have included Ernest Hemingway, Paul Verlaine, Jules Verne, Émile Zola, Édith Piaf, and Colette, enjoying its home-brewed beers and French fare.
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Roman Theatre (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Dating back to 15 BC, "The Great Theatre" is the most prominent and well-preserved vestige of Lyon’s beginnings. The site still serves as a venue for musical and theatrical performances, seating up to 10,000 spectators in the main arena and 3,000 in the secondary venue during Roman times. Today, the space offers a glimpse into the history of the region within the on-site Lyon Gallo-Roman Civilisation Museum, as well as one of its most beautiful vantage points.
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Halles de Lyon-Paul Bocuse (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Your crash course for Lyonnaise foods named after twice nominated ‘Chef of the Century’ and Lyon legend, the late Paul Bocuse, this longstanding food hall gives you a glimpse of all the culinary wonders that the city has to offer. Since 1971, the hall has been home to 48 vendors across its three stories, each tirelessly dedicated to their crafts. Pop in for the very finest produce, meats, and cheeses available anywhere or dine in for lunch at one of the restaurants or bars.
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Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Dubbed the “Little Louvre”, the Museum of Fine Arts in Lyon makes quite the impression with its stunning yet gracefully subdued courtyard entrance. Inside a former Benedictine convent turned museum, sits collection after collection full of renowned painters and sculptors from the likes of Picasso, Pérugin, Véronèse, Rubens, Géricault, Delacroix, Monet, Gauguin, Manet, and Matisse. Always a welcomed atmosphere of calming serenity, wander the halls of it’s 50,000 piece collection for a moment of respite and reflection.
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Musee du Cinema et de la Miniature (Tap to open in Google Maps)
At first glance, it could be mistaken for a tourist trap, and in all honesty, part of it is, but for good reason—its whimsy and fantastical appeal is not something that should be missed. While half of the museum is dedicated to the craft of filmmaking, focusing on props and the like, the other half is where things get interesting. Over 100 miniature scenes created by world-renowned miniaturist Dan Ohlmann are so breathtakingly detailed it’s easy to mistake the scenes as real life shrunk down to some sort of pocket-sized reality.
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La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Perched atop the ‘praying hill’, sits the stark white basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, who is said to have saved Lyon from the plague that ravaged Europe in the 17th century, it was constructed in the late 19th century. The ornate interior boasts a number of mosaics along with a breathtakingly vibrant vaulted ceiling. If highly decorated sculptures aren’t your thing, the view alone is worth the visit, offering one of the highest vantage points in the city.
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Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie de Lyon (Tap to open in Google Maps)
Lyon being the epicenter of gastronomic excellence, this space serves as a fitting monument to the art of French cooking. From immersive experiences to history lessons to good old-fashioned Lyonnaise dishes, the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie de Lyon has so much to offer. Anyone can discover a unique aspect that appeals to their own culinary sensibilities. Located inside the Hôtel-Dieu, the entire experience is a stunning example of how Lyon’s history and heritage are embracing the modern era.
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Vieux Lyon (Tap to open in Google Maps)
One of the most well-preserved Renaissance districts in Europe, it’s easy to see why so much of this city feels frozen in time. Parts of it are a bit touristy, but it’s really worth the effort to explore the alleys and avenues, to see how residents lived when Lyon was the silk capital of the world, and to feel the wind blowing off the Saône as you stumble across one of the neighborhood’s many traboules (hidden passages).
Jardin des Curiosities (Tap to open in Google Maps)
I know we’ve rambled on about a few ‘breathtaking’ views in Lyon, but this one really has no equal. The wonderful part about this space is how well hidden it is. Anyone visiting will surely be doing it with the intention of discovering the tranquility of an incredible view enjoyed in the comfort of peace and quiet. Tucked away in a garden alcove perched on top of Lyon’s biggest hill, this well kept secret presents the most beautiful panoramic view of the city. Full stop.
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